COMMUNIQUÉ 007
COLLECTION 007

And as the sun sets over the broad cosmopolis, we withdraw to the wild and windy moor, not to retreat but to regroup. Braced against the prevailing wind, melancholic in mood, we subsume ourselves within the rugged and the romantic. Enwrapped, enrapt, we wander these lonely lands, tapping into the spirit of resilience in the crunch of the bracken and the spiny gorse.

Thou, Nature, art our goddess! To thy laws our services are bound! Here on the blasted heath we offer no fealty to the new rules of society, of culture, of couture – our resistance is not passive, but subversive. With disruptive patterns and mossy felted wool, we camouflage ourselves; with waxed tarpaulin, we protect ourselves; with flowing silks, we embody the freedom of the rolling mist. In these untamed uplands there is eternal certainty – now is the time to refresh our minds and recalibrate our wardrobes with the raw power of nature.

TOOGOOD


COMMUNIQUÉ 006
COLLECTION 006

This land – our land, your land – is our inspiration; in this soil the seeds of our collections grow. The time is ripe to reaffirm a connection with the very earth we walk, the ground we farm and breed on: the forgotten charms of the waving wheatfields, of swine foraging in the mire, of rich and bounteous folkways. Our aims are pastoral, not rustic – with homegrown labour and natural fabrics, we shall harvest this agrarian idyll for our modern way of living.

On streets of asphalt between the glassy high-rises, we plough our own furrow. Farmers’ checks, redrawn in the scarlet ink of a deskbound accountant, repurpose the country code for the sterile city. Patchwork quilting, sampled and remixed, provides bucolic comfort, while the unbridled creativity of a child’s-eye view of muddy pigs lends a vital naïve element. Strong, practical, tethered to the land with apron strings and dungaree straps – this new arcadia is rooted in the honest simplicity of agricultural labour.

We return to the land! We stand alone in our field!

TOOGOOD



Plant the seeds of change
Agrarian revolution!
Swine before earls
Take back the land
Ours is a growth industry
Reap what we have sewn
And as the seasons turn
Let new life emerge!



COMMUNIQUÉ 005
COLLECTION 005

We salute the noble mudlarks! Along the banks of the dirty old river, these resourceful scavengers sift the silt for the buried remnants of a hundredscore years. A clay pipe, an ivory button, a Roman coin, a charred remnant of the city’s first campfire – what fresh delights will the ebbing tide reveal?

The repetitious cycles of the fashion mainstream follow only the current, overlooking in their arrogance all that is deemed washed up. This we disdain! Arrayed in our exploratory uniform, we champion the serendipity of the chance find. Through fine-grade steel mesh we filter and sieve the accumulated influences of these islands’ centuries. From abandoned yarns and threads we knit knotty new designs. On interwoven hooks and grommets we hang our trouvés, the treasures we have found lying half-buried in the sediment of our lives.

Inspiration through recirculation!

TOOGOOD




COMMUNIQUÉ 004
COLLECTION 004

With guile and ingenuity, the resourceful women of wartime Britain would transform fallen parachutes into silk lingerie. Thus with diligent stitching would they make do and amend, turning the rarefied fabric of war to glamorous and amorous purpose. The lightweight silk that bore airmen on stealthy missions behind enemy lines became pacified, moving from secret assignation to secret assignations, sedition to seduction.

These are the blueprints which we now declassify! The marriage of intimacy and military structure – repurposed for a new century. Ours is an age without secrecy. What was hidden is worn openly, the covert becomes the overt. We take the tools of clandestine subterfuge, the ruched reinforcements and the ripcord ties, and mesh them with the intimate sensuality of the underlayers. The gentle sway of diaphanous organzas, silks and organdies, the most precious accoutrements of the private sphere, on proud display for all to see! The bellicose functionalism of airforce blues and olive drab, softened and appeased with undulant layering.

Gone are the days of undercover operations and hidden prowess, but the craft and the forms behind them endure.Now the secrets havesurfaced; the private is on parade!

TOOGOOD




COMMUNIQUÉ 003

COLLECTION 003

Your individuality is a precious and fragile thing – you must protect it at any cost. Assailed by conformity, beset by convention, you must look to your own unique traits and keep them safe.

We are archivists of the body, curators of the soul. With folds of felt and waxed cotton we envelop your frame, and wrap it all up with string. With layers of clinging film we keep your ideas fresh, all sealed away with prophylactic care. Packaged and preserved, you will endure.

We are urban survivalists, outward bound in the inner city. With chunky knits and padded linens, we insulate you on your expeditions, preserving your inner warmth in an environment as cold and uncaring as the eyes of strangers. Against harsh wind and smog, we will swaddle and coddle you.

Let the elements rain down upon you! Let the modern world throw at you what it will! You are protected!

Protect and survive!

TOOGOOD


TWELVE DAYS

           W
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           K
           I
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           G  AND SLEEPING ON BARREN GROUND

FINDING YOUR OWN WAY IN THE CANYONS OF CONCRETE

EXPLORING THE DESERTED CITIES OF THE MIND.



WHATEVER IS FELT MUST ENDURE

F R A G M E N T S SHORED UP AGAINST

THE RAVAGES OF TIME

                        OF THESE TIMES




PROTEST AND THRIVE

PROTECT AND SURVIVE


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The Forester Jumper and Forester Hat [drab hand-spun alpaca]




COMMUNIQUÉ 002 COLLECTION 002

We are the faceless workers! Our collars are blue, through and through! So too are the sleeves upon which we wear our hearts, and the backs across which we blazon our deepest creeds and ideals. Blue is our livery – the royal teint that flows through aristocratic veins, diverted and reclaimed by the labouring masses. Whatever our field or trade – industry, construction, repair, service, retail – it is constantly present, the ballpoint hue whose inky pigment writes of countless decades of toil and struggle.

The time has come to stand firm and forge a new identity from these durable blueprints. Eighteen unisex garments – in shapes that are new but always familiar – manufactured in Britain by honest hands. Tough cottons and hardwearing linens united in fresh purpose, with digitally printed slogans writ large for all the world to see. The dignity of the workers’ blues, with none of the depression. In the conformity of labour, we find a new expression of ourselves. We are the faceless workers! And we are all individuals!

TOOGOOD






LIBERATION
FASHIONED BY INDUSTRY
NOT THE FASHION INDUSTRY
 
WORKERS OF THE WORLD
UNITE
 
ROADSWEEPER
   BEEKEPER
       OILRIGGER
           MILKMAN
 
RICH MAN
    POOR MAN
         BEGGAR MAN
             THIEF
 
A
R
TISANS CONTROL THE MEANS OF
            PRODUCTION
            PREDICTION
            PREDILECTION
 
YOU HAVE NOTHING TO LOSE
BUT YOUR CHAINSTORES
 
             T
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COMMUNIQUÉ 001

COLLECTION 001

Now is the time to rise above the whims of corporate fashion and actualise the individual. Industrial relations Faye & Erica Toogood have built a new collection — inspired by the workers, to inspire the workers. Eight new coats, practical and sculptural, crafted from hardwearing materials and engineered to withstand the changing seasons. Each garment derives from the workwear of a specific trade — an authentic vocation, not the shallow desk jobs of the digital age — marked with the signs of toil in screen-printed rubber and foil. Each piece knows no boundaries of age or gender, available in six sizes to enhance or disguise the individual frame. The materials are redolent of the values of staunch tradespeople: the waxed cotton of the oilrigger; the vulcanised rubber of the industrial labourer; the hardwearing canvas of the mariner and the artist. Unique documentation sewn inside celebrates its provenance, encouraging the wearer to forge a new link in its chain of production: the names of the buyer, the seller, the manufacturer, right back to the designer and the pattern-cutter, are all displayed with justifiable pride.

TOOGOOD



001 THE ROADSWEEPER COAT [rubberised black canvas]

001 THE ROADSWEEPER [rubberised black canvas]


TOOGOOD

This is the story of two good Toogoods.

Sisters Faye and Erica Toogood were raised amid the furrowed fields of the English countryside. Their grandmother was a tailor who, during the War, made underwear out of parachutes.

Faye would go foraging in the woods in her wellingtons, collecting sticks and stones and broken bones then endlessly rearranging them on the mantelpiece in her room.

This self-confessed tinker went on to become one of the most recognisable figures in the design industry, creating furniture, interiors and sculpture.

Imbued with the spirit of her grandmother, and having inherited her long maker’s hands, Erica was obsessed with shapes and drapes from an early age. At the age of eight she jumped on a Singer sewing machine and made herself a top out of an old windsock.

She has worked with a number of London fashion designers as a pattern-cutter, created costumes for theatrical productions, and carried out countless bespoke commissions for private clients.

Toogood is instilled with the unmistakable spirit of both sisters: Faye’s preoccupation with materiality and Erica’s audacious shape-making.

One a tinker, the other a tailor.

They approach fashion design obliquely, working with architects, product designers and painters to create hardwearing pieces that are both practical and sculptural.

Each garment takes inspiration from traditional workwear, transforming the idea of a uniform into a mark of individuality.

Sewn inside is an identification document which traces its manufacture by crediting the designers, makers and distributers in turn, with a space for the new owner’s name to be added in, encouraging a sense of connection to the chain of creation.


001 THE OILRIGGER [hand-painted rubberised oil]

001 THE OILRIGGER [white baked latex]

001 THE OILRIGGER [white 7oz primed canvas]



CONTACT

TOOGOOD
71 Redchurch Street
London, E2 7DJ

+44 (0)20 7226 1061
info@t-o-o-g-o-o-d.com



STOCKISTS

UK
Dover Street Market, London
Mouki Mou, London
Selfridges Womenswear
Selfridges Menswear, London

France
L’Eclaireur, Paris
Gago, Aix-en-Provence

Denmark
Henrik Vibskov, Copenhagen

Italy
Banner, Milan
Slash, Treviso

USA
A’maree’s, Newport Beach
Dover Street Market, New York
H Lorenzo, Los Angeles
If Soho New York, New York
Robin Richman, Chicago IL
Santa Fe Dry Goods, Santa Fe NM
Susan The Grocery Store, San Francisco
Tiina the Store, Amagansett

Canada
Cahier D’Exercices, Montreal

Japan
24th August, Osaka
Acoustics, Kumamoto
Arts & Science, Tokyo & Kyoto
Dover Street Market Ginza, Tokyo
House of Lotus, Tokyo
Kink, Nagoya
Laila Tokio, Tokyo
Mathematics, Kanagawa
Quico, Tokyo
Ripe Ark,Tochigi
Silver & Gold, Osaka
Shelter 2, Kobe
Soutousya, Kobe
Ware-Mo-Kou, Tokyo
White Album, Saitama

China
Anchoret, Beijing
Autumn Sonata, Shanghai

Hong Kong
Anchoret, Hong Kong

Korea
Joshua, Seoul

Russia
3,14 Project, Moscow

Kuwait
4, Shuwaikh

Lebanon
If Beirut, Beirut

ENQUIRE info@t-o-o-g-o-o-d.com